words by Smita Hedge
I was born and brought up in Mumbai, but my roots trace back to a quaint coastal village called Aversa in Karnataka. Despite our city life, our deep connection to Aversa pulled my family and me back to our ancestral home every summer, leaving me with wonderful memories of my childhood visits. The humble laterite house was home to three families and three generations, all living together as one large, happy family. Textiles were the primary source of livelihood, with handlooms set up close to the house, and we also had a rice paddy field nearby. Every morning, farm workers would gather in the courtyard before heading to work in the fields. It was customary for the master to provide lunch, and many came to work for that hearty meal.
In Karnataka, fish curry and rice are staple dishes, but I remember vividly how my Amma (grandmother) instructed the cook to prepare chicken curry and boil kilos of rice for the workers in a separate kitchen away from the main house. Looking back, I realize that caste and class distinctions were deeply ingrained even 40 years ago. Fish, although plentiful, was considered a luxury, reserved for the wealthy, as it was more expensive than poultry or meat, much like today. Eating chicken or mutton was somewhat taboo in our home, possibly to emphasize these class differences. This mindset has lingered; even today, my father prefers his fish curry and rice, expressing mild disapproval when chicken or meat is served.
Despite the enticing fragrance of roasted spices, fresh coconut, and onions wafting from the staff kitchen, the family never tasted it until one day when my paternal uncle decided to break the rules and savor a bowl of the chicken curry with parboiled rice.
Despite the enticing fragrance of roasted spices, fresh coconut, and onions wafting from the staff kitchen, the family never tasted it until one day when my paternal uncle decided to break the rules and savor a bowl of the chicken curry with parboiled rice. In the years that followed, he recreated the recipe in his own kitchen and served it to the family during gatherings at his home. Since then, this chicken curry has found a place at our dining table on many occasions. Today, I dedicate this recipe to my uncle, Balu Kaka.
Balu Kaka's Chicken Curry
Ingredients
- 1 kg chicken
- ½ fresh coconut, grated
- 3 medium onions, sliced
- 2 medium onions, finely chopped
- 2 tbsp coconut oil
- Salt, to taste
To Roast and Grind into a Powder
- 1 tsp black cumin seeds
- 1 tsp poppy seeds
- 10 peppercorns
- 10 cloves
- 1 black cardamom
- 1 bay leaf
- 1-inch cinnamon stick
- A small piece of nutmeg
To Roast in 2 Tbsp Coconut Oil and Grind into a Paste
- 20 dried red chilies
- 2 tbsp coriander seeds
- 10 cloves of garlic
Method
Marinate the Chicken: Apply the red chili, coriander, and garlic paste to the chicken. Let it sit for 30 minutes.Prepare the Coconut Paste: Heat a kadai (wok) and dry roast the sliced onions until translucent. Add the grated coconut and continue roasting until the coconut is slightly browned. Allow it to cool, then grind to a fine paste.
Cook the Chicken: In a kadai, heat coconut oil and add the finely chopped onions. Fry until golden brown.
Combine Ingredients: Add the marinated chicken to the kadai and fry until the oil separates from the mixture.
Add the Remaining Ingredients: Add the garam masala powder, salt, and the coconut-onion paste. Sauté for 4-5 minutes, then add 1 liter of water. Cook until the chicken is tender.
Serve: Serve hot with neer dosa, amboli, or rice.